Sunday, 19 January 2014

THE ISLAND OF ICE AND FIRE - part IV



Leaving the wonderful environment of Lake Myvatn, we are deeply entered the eastern half of the Island. The area with only 14,000 inhabitants. Desert landscapes intertwined with  lava fields  and weather conditions  which can be reversed for a short time. There`s only one law in this area, the law of nature . Travelers may often run into serious problems in case of wrong weather assessment  and "not listening" what nature has to say.


Road to the Dettifoss waterfall

One of those areas  is road to the most powerful waterfall in Europe, Dettifoss waterfall. Valley,  which cuts the river Jokulsa a Fjollum belongs to Vatnajokull National Park. The river flows under the ice cap of Iceland's largest glacier Vatnajokull. On its way to the confluence in the Oxarfjordur, intersects the Highlands in interior of Iceland. The river collects  tremendous amount of water from the Highlands.

Dettifoss (www.northiceland.is)

Dettifoss is the largest waterfall in Europe by the amount of ejected water, with an average flow rate of 193 m3 /s. It is 100 meters wide and has a drop of 45 meters, where is the Jökulsárgljúfur  canyon, "carved" by vast amount of water.

Wet and delighted, Dettifoss

Due to the large amount of water that splashes you from all sides , a longer stay next to the waterfall isn`t possible. It is almost certain that you`ll be completely wet, which can be very dangerous if you don`t have spare clothes. Dettifoss is not that beautiful  like most of the attractions in Iceland. But it`s a place where you`ll feel the power of nature and learn to respect it. A few hundred meters upstream from Dettifoss, the Selfoss waterfall  is situated,  with a drop of 11 meters.

Waterfall Selfoss

Driving along Route 1 toward the eastern fjords  can be seen as a special attraction. Fantastic landscapes with unusual mountain peaks which emerges from the fields of sparse vegetation. You have the impression that you are in some parallel world, in a science fiction movie. That`s the reason why  filmmakers love this island. It`s ideal location for a "role" of other planets  and strange worlds.
  
Magical scenery of East Iceland

With only 2260 inhabitants, the largest town in East Iceland is Eggilstadir. This fact shows how much the East is sparsely populated. Like most of the "major" cities in Iceland, has an airport with regular flights to Reykjavik .
The greatest attraction in the East are beautiful fjords, carved by deep sea. Once, this part of the country was covered by a blanket of ice. After that, there has been melting of ice that shaped dents  in the land and allowed  sea water to penetrate deeply into it. Most visited fjord is Seydisfjordur, the  Port where some of the famous cruise lines sails in. From this port sails a regular " Smyril Line " for the Faeroe Islands (Torshavn) and Denmark (Hirtshals).

Smyril Line sails into the fjord (www.smyrilline.com)

From Seyðisfjörður toward  south,there are Mjoifjorđur, Eskifjođur, Rejđarfjorđur, Faskruđsfjordur, Stođvarfjorđur and Berufjorđur. Each of these fjords have inhabited settlements  with developed local community. Although small, these towns, for Icelandic conditions, all have fish factories and handball clubs, as it is the most popular sport in Iceland. Fish factories  are mainly joint stock companies. In case of large catches all residents work  together around the clock on fish processing. It does not matter who is who in town, whether a doctor, a lawyer, a fisherman or a butcher. When it`s necessary they team up, because all can benefit from it. They are taking out from the nature, but also respect it. To average Europeans it is difficult to understand, but in Iceland it is the law. Man doesn`t adjust the nature to itself, but learns how to live in harmony with nature, respecting its laws.

Stođvarfjorđur

Through the picturesque fjords, Route 1 heading south near the small town of Djúpivogur to Hofn, the largest city in the southeast.  A fishing town known for the best lobster in Iceland, situated near Hornafjordur. Hofn is the starting point for a glacier Vatnajokull tour, and perhaps the greatest attraction in Iceland, Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon. You can visit an interesting glacier exhibition in Hofn and see the story of an expedition to Vatnajokull.

Hofn

80 kilometers west of Hofn, there is a unique natural phenomenon, the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon. Lagoon is actually a glacial lake that flows into the sea. The ice from glacier Breiđarmerkurjokull is moving down and creates a unique scenery.

Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon

Incredible landscape formed by icebergs of all shades from white to blue, is a magnet for visitors. Lagoon can be visited by amphibian boat or "Zodiac" boat. Driving with amphibian boat lasts 30-40 minutes, one hour with “Zodiac”.

   Amphibian, Jokulsarlon

Price for amphibian tour  is 4000 ISK (26 euros), for “Zodiac” is 6500 (41 euro). The advantage of visiting the lagoon by boat  is that you can approach the icebergs, navigate between them, all the time listening to the guides story about the origin of the lagoon and see the seals from close range. Seals are permanent residents of Jokulsarlon and great attraction for tourists.

Iceberg, Jokulsarlon

The color of the icebergs in the lagoon occurs as a result of refraction of light rays. The same piece of ice can change color several times during the day. Lagoon constantly changes its appearance, the color and shape of ice in it, is never the same. You will have a different experience every single time you visit it.

Spectacular scenery, Jokulsarlon

The Glacier Lagoon is often used for scenes of famous world movies. Jokulsarlon is best known as place of shooting the James Bond movies. At first in 1985. "A View to a Kill", then in 2002. "Die Another Day", when lagoon was closed for two months, in order to freeze for shooting car chase scene in the frozen lagoon.

A scene from the film " Die Another Day " (www.jamesbondwiki.com)

This area of Iceland is rarely populated and finding accommodation can be a big problem. 13 km from the lagoon towards Hofn  is a Hali Country Hotel, which has a restaurant with homemade food. Prices are very affordable for Icelandic conditions, with outstanding accommodation and service. The price for double room with buffet breakfast for two persons is from 115 to 175 euro. The average dinner in the restaurant is 30-40 euro. There is no another or better choice In this region of the country. Within the hotel complex there is a museum dedicated to Thorbergur Thorđarson, one of the greatest writers in Iceland. Otherwise, Iceland is a country with the highest number of writers per capita. Every tenth Icelander has published a book.

Thorbergur Museum and Cultural Center

Overnight near the glacier lagoon has a positive side, because you can experience the morning in the lagoon, when the colors of ice are even more intense. Icebergs, which were previously placed in the middle of lagoon, next day can sail into the ocean.

Icebergs sails into the sea

Outside the lagoon, on the beautiful  beach with black volcanic sand, you can see icebergs coming out from the lagoon and sail into the sea.

Fight with ice

Route 1 towards West leads to a Nature reserve cape Ingolfshofdi , 30 kilometers from Jokulsarlon. Here you can pay a sightseeing tour of the Nature reserve with the main attraction, Puffin watching. Price is around 4,000 ISK (26 euros).

Nature reserve, Ingolfshofdi (www.hof1.is)

The tour itself is an attraction, because it involves driving on tractor through the vast black beaches to Nature reserve that bulging out of the water and volcanic sand.

Ingolfshofdi tour

The reserve is named after Ingolfur Arnarson, the first settler in Iceland. It is believed that it was precisely on this place where he disembarked on the Island for the first time. There is a monument on the cape dedicated to him.

Puffin

The greatest attraction of the reserve are the favorite birds in Iceland, puffins. They are actually a trademark of Iceland. Ingolfshofdi is one of the places where you can see these lovely birds. Most of them can be found on Westman Islands, in the southwest of the country. Various species of birds could be seen on Ingolfshofdi. Particular attention is drawn to the Great Skua (Stercoranus Skua). Sea bird, originating from the Faroe Islands.

Great Skua

Our journey takes us to Skaftafell, one of the centers of Vatnajokull National Park. Formerly an independent national park, providing rich content to visitors. From hiking on attractive paths, to glaciers tours with full protective gear.

Glacier Skaftafellsjokull

The greatest attraction of the park is Svertifoss waterfall, or The Black Waterfall. Different from all waterfalls we saw in Iceland. It is characterized by basaltic lava columns, just like those at the Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland. Waterfall is named after the black rocks of volcanic origin.

Black waterfall - Svertifoss

On the way towards Reykjavik we  pass through the area of frequent large beaches with black volcanic sand. Formed as a result of volcanic eruptions that melting glaciers and floods that carry the ashes and other volcanic materials throughout the area. There`s been a serious floods with destruction of bridges and roads, also evacuation of the locals. As very rational people, Icelanders have decided to build prefabricated metal bridges with one stripe in these sections.

Prefabricated bridge in the south of Iceland

The southernmost settlement on the island is the village of Vik, 180 km from Reykjavik. It is the largest settlement within 70 km, although it has only 290 inhabitants. It is known for the most beautiful black beach in Iceland, with a trademark – the black rocks that protrude from the sea.

Vik

Waterfall Skogafoss is another attraction in the south of Iceland. Situated on the cliffs of the former coastline.  Over time, it shifted the coastline seaward for about 5 km. It is situated on the river Skogar and has a drop of 60 meters.

Skogafoss (www.winterwonderland.is)

A journey around Iceland is slowly coming to an end. We enjoy the scenery created by lava fields and arrive to the currently best known volcano on the island, Eyjafjallajokull, the "murderer" of the European air traffic.

Under the volcano, Eyjafjallajokull

On the way to the Keflavik international airport going through my mind the image of what we, my good friend and best companion for travel, Bojan and I, have seen in the distant Iceland. We traveled almost the whole Europe, but we haven`t seen yet so many beautiful  places in one country. And  we haven`t  seen all. Desire for a visit of some remote and inaccessible parts of the country, rich with wonders of nature, still remains. Iceland is a magical, beautiful, raw, dramatic, unique... I could make a list of it, but I know one thing, I'll be back again! You can bet on it!

THE END

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